About Me

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Yilan, Taiwan
I just returned back to the States after 11 years in Taiwan with my daughter. Taiwan is an excellent base for us explore Asia, while living in relative (gun free) safety, while benefiting from a cheap and efficient national health care system. The people are amazing too. I have Taiwanese friendships that are 20 years old and I'm always making new ones! My coworker here in CO is from Taiwan.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Sigang Abductee

Spelled Sigang, Xigang, but sounds like Sheegang, it means the west harbor 西. Once the ocean came came all the way over here. Tony and his wife Shu-Min had invited us over for the day and packed me, Z and their three boys into their car for some sightseeing. What a treat to see a different slice of Tainan only 30 minutes away.
It was a beautiful spring day. The day before was freezing so I had overdressed Z and I and had to de-layer at their house before we took off. They took us first to some nearby pony stables used in  the township's temples festivities. The ponies were sweet and soft. There were also some deer and the kids enjoyed playing with a pitchfork and feeding the ponies. Zen is always telling me she wants to be a farmer and I do too (I worked on an organic farm in Germany and Ireland), so I have to give that one some more thought....
Then we went to see a 300 year old grave from the Chinese governor during the Qing dynasty. It was found when builder were digging up the ground. The tomb is facing China and his wife's is down the road.

Shu-Min giving thanks for our visit
Lao Tze
After that we went to a quiet temple, totally empty of people or noise, that reminded Tony of Japanese style temples. simple, without flourishes. Shumin said this temple was built in the Northern Chinese style, unlike most of the temples of Taiwan that are Southern Chinese style. The gate had a Chinese sundial at the entrance, smaller shrines leading to the bigger temple that housed the Taiwanese trinity of a Lao Tze, the Taoist philosopher worshipped as a god, Buddha and Confucius, also worshipped as a god.
The kids were getting restless so they took them to a fantastic private kindergarten. The grounds were massive, more like a farm, with goats, a bowling alley, extensive playground, boat on wheels, climbing ropes and a labyrinth. Tony was talking me into working there, as Z would love to be outdoors and could come there after elementary school, free accommodation for teachers, ARC. Only it was 30 minutes from Tainan, and I know I would feel totally devoid of a social life, also no gym.


Lunch was their treat at the local morning market. Between 10:30-12:30 people lined up around the corner to the street for some seriously, infamous pork stew. We stood in line for a good 30 minutes which seems longer with hungry kids until we got to the front and the lady told us, "if you eat here you didn't have to wait." Oh well. Waiting seemed part of the experience and also wettened our appetite. I got my lunch box and by all appearances it looked just like any other, a sticky foundation of starchy white rice, a side of greasy stir fried, cabbage, some pickled greens, several fat pieces of pork, that was stewed, and deep fried, battered shrimp. The pork was so tender, it melted in my mouth. The pig farm is just down the road. They stew it all morning in magic, secret ingredients. The cabbage and shrimp tasted so fresh, I was full. Great stew, Z couldn't finish her pork so, like the glutton I can be, I had an extra piece. It was probably the best pork I ever ate.

Cing-an Temple in the center of Sigang.
The boat to be burned in May 2012
After lunch they took us to the big temple in the center of town. Cing-an temple is notorious for its very lively worship as well as its boat burning ceremony that happens every three years. The Lonely Planet has the boat burning info for Pingdong but nothing on Sigang's. The next boat burning is this year, next month, the first weekend in May. It officially begins on Thursday, but Tony and Shumin said we could come down Friday after work and stay the weekend. We would have to bring chairs to stand on so we could see. Thousands of devotees from around Taiwan gather as well as international anthropologists.
When we were there, Shumin gave me the grand tour, introduced every idol, showed me the gold doors, the boat that had just been finished being built and painted that will be burnt. Showed me how they worship, I felt like an anthropologist (when I was a kid I wanted to be one or an archaeologist.) She ended her tour by showing me the extensive base relief walls depicting the 18 floors of hell and the different tortures for different sins. Very gruesome and scary. As we were leaving some gods from other temples came to visit.  They are carried on small sedan chairs and poles by men, lots of drumming, trumpeting. A shaman had some sawed off sailfish saw, from a real fish and was beating his forehead with it, doing a kind of kung fu dance until blood was trickling down his forehead. It was getting a little too close and crowded, Z was scared from the loud firecrackers and went with Tony and the boys across the street for red bean cakes.

Unfortunately as much as I'd like to see the burning boats, Z is very sensitive to temple activity, she is scared of the firecrackers (not like the 4th of July, staged from a safe distance kind), which sound and feel like you're in the middle of  a live gun battle, war zone (although Taiwanese kids are used to it). It is one thing she has not been able to get used 4 years living here. Thats ok

Doors of real gold
It was nice to hang with Tony and his family in their neighborhood and for Shu-Min to explain all the intricacies of the temple, that I would not have known. I appreciated her pointing out her relatives houses here and there and girlhood memories of the temple during the yearly festivals. I was also stunned by the blood letting Shaman, and the excellent pork stew. A different kind of Sunday.

Hell is gruesome
Shu-Min showing the ghost money folded into lotus flowers, back of Cing-An temple


Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Day Tripper

Have a day or two to spare and need a change of scene? There are some great day/overnight trips and you don’t have to go far or even have a car.


Day Trips (that I have done):
1. The beach. There is Golden Beach, Tainan beach, the beach over Yuguang bridge.
2. Guanziling hot Springs- If you don’t have wheels, a bus from Tainan train station takes about 45 minutes one way. Just ask the info booth in the train station.
3. Tiger Head Lake- Been there once and am going back this April 4th holiday. It’s a ten minute drive from Tainan city and nice for a BBQ and bike ride.
4. Cijin Island, Kaohsiung- Also bike riding and fresh seafood. The beach is nice too, clean sand and showers. From the train station take a taxi to the ferry. You can rent bikes there.
5. Chaishan Nature reserve, Kaohsiung: Or as my daughter likes to call it, “Monkey Mountain.” Nice for asweaty hike. The macaques are unpredictable, beware.
6. Hsitzuwan Beach, Kaohsiung. Beautiful at sunset, mountain backdrop, very clean, on the campus of SunYat Sen University campus.
7. Xiao Liuqiu island- Definitely worth spending the night. The campground is amazing and nearby are some cheap cottages on a green field overlooking the sea. A truly magical little coral island, hard to believe someplace so close to Kaohsiung is so clean. Snorkling, beaches, scooter freedom. Take a train south to Kaohsiung-Pingdong.  Then take a bus to Dongang (40 minutes, every 20 minutes), last stop is the ferry treminal. The first terminal leaves every hour in the morning, takes about 30 minutes one way. My friend got seasick, so if youre a landlover, buy meds in advance.
8. The Reservoirs (Wushantou, Tsengwen, Baihe)- Everytime I went was in a car, don’t know about buses going there. Nice for a BBQ. I camped at one of these and don’t recommend it (late night KTV by the campers next to me.)
9. Various coffee farms in Northern Tainan Co. Definitely need a car and if youre not a total coffee buff, then I’d skip this. The coffee shops selling the stuff are totally overpriced.


Day Trips I haven’t done yet (and let’s be honest, I will probably never will, see final list):


1. Biking around Lotus Pond (Lianchi Tan), Kaohsiung
2. Taiwan Salt Museum
3. Black Faced Spoonbill reserve

Weekend/One nighter trips: With high speed trains, you could easily spend a weekend near and around any city. These are just some of the one closest to Tainan.
1. Lukang
2. Alishan
3. Sun Moon Lake
4. Rueli
5. Kenting


3 Day weekend: In the lucky event you have 3 or 4 days to roam, then I’d highly recommend the following;

1. Penghu Archipelago (the Pescadores). Also known as the Hawaii of Taiwan, need I say more?
2. Green Island
3. Biking Guanshan+ 60 Stone Mt
4. Taipei (So much to see and do in the city and around).

Taiwan is an excellent base to explore Asia. There are always deals on Air Asia and Tiger Air to major cities like KL, HK and BKK and from there you can go to just about anywhere. Flights to Manila and Seoul are fairly cheap. 
5. Hong Kong

6. Tokyo
7. KL
8. Singapore
9.  Seoul- Haven’t actually made a trip there from Tainan, but l worked there before and always recommend it for a few days if you have the time, so much to see and do and possible for a long weekend.


Yes I have been in Tainan for almost 4 years and there are tons of iconic places I still haven’t gone and plan to before I say my final farewell. Trips happen when their meant to happen, right? So I’m hoping I will go to all of these places within this year and create some new memories and adventures, even if I don’t have a 3 day weekend. (Yet, I have been to Nantou so many times, I’ve lost track. Weekend trips, day trips, I just keep on returning to different places in Nantou, must be my affinity for altitude and my Rocky Mountain heritage.)


Here is my list of places I haven’t gone but really want to:
1. Hsinchu- I want to see my dear friend Grace up there since she moved from Tainan and she wants to show me around.
2. Lanyu Island/ Pongso No Tao
3. Matsu Island
4. Camp at Liyu Lake
5. South Cross Highway- I have had this road trip fantasy about the South Cross highway since the day I first started reading up on Tainan. It just seems like a road trippers dream to stop here and there and explore all the hot springs along the way. My scooter wouldn’t make the trip and it just hasn’t worked out with friends w/cars.
6. Finish East Rift Valley, Highway 9
7. Biking the East coast
8. Hike Jade Mt.
9. Hualien and Taroko
10. Biking Ershui, Jiji Rail line


I know what you’re thinking, its sad and shocking that I still haven’t seen Taiwan’s number one natural wonder, the Taroko Gorge. Its definitely high on my list, there were a few 3 day weekends years past when I was making plans and all accommodations were just booked way in advance. There is also no easy way to get there from Tainan, highspeed train to Taipei and then another train to Hualien, or fly there I guess, but I definitely need to go. I guess I’d like time to explore Huelien and also camp in the park.


 For one little island, Taiwan is jam packed with plenty of options worthy of exploration. Mountains and sea, islands and hot springs galore, good things do come in small packages.






Monday, March 12, 2012

Lantern Festival: Buoyant Wishes and Luminous Dreams


One night’s east wind adorns thousands of trees with flowers
And blows down stars in showers.
Fine steeds and carved cabs spread fragrance en route,
Music vibrates from the flute,
The moon sheds its full light
And fish and dragon shaped lanterns dance all night.
In gold thread dress, with moth and willow shaped ornaments,
Giggling, she melts into the throng with trails of scents.
In the crowd again and again
I look for her in vain.
When all at once I turn my head,
I find her there where lantern light is dimly shed.

(This is Xin Qiji's or Hsin Ch'i-chi most famous 詞 ci or lyric poem. From the book "Gems of Classical Chinese Poetry"-1988)



 

I figured I ought to write about Lantern festival before Tomb Sweeping Festival creeps up. The climax of the Chinese New Year or Spring festival is the Lantern festival元宵節. Celebrating  this with my old friends was just the excuse I needed to head north to Taipei and reconnect. I decided not to head north the first week of the celebrations because I could do without the crowds. I had heard horror stories of crammed shuttle buses and even being stranded. (Click here for all photos).

Decoratinga lantern at home in Tainan




Pingxi

On Friday we took the high speed train to Taipei Main Station. We stayed with my dear friend Alisse in Zhuwei. On early Saturday morning Sherry and her brother Michael picked us up and we headed to Pingxi. Pingxi is one of 3 of Taiwan’s old rail lines, 12 km of track, a 45 minute ride scenic ride. We skipped this actually, for some reason I imagined it was an old steam train, and the car drive was just as scenic. The whole area was once entirely built on the coal mining industry during Japanese occupation. Pingxi is also fameous for its sky lanterns, 天燈 a large paper lantern of different colors (each color has a meaning), marked with people’ personal wishes and prayers for the new year, with a combustible waxed paper attached to the bottom that is lit and flies into the heavens.  We walked around Pingxi old town, ate lunch there and drove to Shifen to admire the waterfalls.  The falls were impressive and we could get a close up experience without the crowds. We drove around a bit and then headed back to Pingxi to release our own lantern.



Shifen waterfalls



We had the nicest auntie help us out, her massive sky lantern cost a mere 200NT and me, Z and Sherry painted our prayers with black calligraphy ink—looks better in Mandarin.





Michael dropped us off at Sun Yatsen Memorial to see the Lantern exhibits, mostly al ot of dragons and fish, dinosaurs and transformers made by various junior high and high school students. There were a lot of lanterns depicting Tao gods/generals, Guanyin being very beautiful. Personally, Z and I enjoyed the enchanted forest exhibit under the domineering Taipei 101 in the background, lots of deer, Pegasus, a unicorn, witch, mermaids, panda bears, gigantic bees, butterflies and winged fairies everywhere. We headed to the massive rotating dragon that started every 30 minutes with a laser light and water show.

 


The highlight of our night out was dinner. Monica organized it and our old Kid Castle gang from 11 years ago, met under the same roof at the same table, with their kids and spouses. It was at an Italian restaurant in a ritzy part of the city, all homemade pasta and breads, very authentic and delicious. It was surreal to see my old friends who still looked the same, with their happy families.  Jojo(Sophie) and her two kids, her husband who was her boyfriend when we worked together, Teresa still single and working too hard raising her niece like her own daughter, Sherry our former manager (best boss EVER), Michael (coolest older bro EVER), me and Z, Monica and Roger (he was also her boyfriend when we worked together). They are all so grounded and happy. It was a fun time, Monica didn’t want it to end, Teresa had work at home to finish (always so hardworking), Sophie had drove from Chungli, so they left.


Sophie, Me, Sherry


Me, Monica, Teresa, her niece

 It was a long Saturday, but so special, like the linking my Taipei past with my present, updating everything, making new memories. Alisse was waiting for us at home, with her cousin, they have been going to some Zen meditation class every Saturday and she is just raving about her teacher who has a branch in Tainan.




The next morning, Monica and Roger picked me and Z up at Zhishan MRT and we drove to Yangmingshan, the massive mountain of memories past. It was the beginning of the cherry blossoms and people came in droves. They closed the direct road from Tianmu and we had to go around. The crowds could have been worse, and they seemed to come later, so we had this incredibly sunny, clear view of Taipei below and the cherry blossoms and other flowers, little brooks and paths. It was almost too warm, we had to de-layer. After lunch we headed to some hot springs, women only, outdoors but blocked by screens.

Yangmingshan
Yangmingshan
I was late to meet Alisse at Shuanglian MRT, and she treated us to dinner. Then she helped us maneuver the new bus station, where we said our goodbyes. The bus station is huge, multi-leveled, like an airport. We said our goodbyes and waited for our bus back to Tainan which was super late. We made a new friend who is a nursing teacher at one of the hospitals in Tainan, which past the time. I was exhausted when we got back home, but ahh the memories.

Alisse, Me


Hsin Ch'i-chi's Lantern festival poem

Yuánxī Qīngyù'àn
(Xīn Qìjí 1140-1207)

Dōngfēng Yè Fànghuā Qiānshù

Gèng chuī luò

Xīng rú yǔ.

Bǎo mǎdiāochē xiāng mǎn lù

Fèngxiāo shēng dòng.

Yùhú guāng zhuǎn

Yī yè yúlóng wǔ.

Éér xuěliǔ huángjīn lǚ

Xiàoyǔyíngyíng ànxiāng qù.

Zhòng lǐ xún tā qiānbǎidù

Mòránhuíshǒu

Nà rén què zài!

Dēnghuǒ lánshān chù.